Written by Leona Liu, ASTONISH Paris.
(All photos courtesy of Juliana Moriya)
ASTONISH Magazine recently had the pleasure of chatting with rising Brazilian designer Juliana Moriya over champagne at Le Fumoir bar/restaurant off Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Juliana, 27, showed her first womenswear collection this past June in the 29th Casa dos Criadores as a prize for winning It MTV/Elle’s Fashion Fabric reality TV competition (Brazil’s twist on America’s Project Runway). The prestigious three-day fashion event, which takes place bi-annually in São Paulo, serves as a launchpad for fresh local talent. Juliana’s namesake label, which comprises of solely womenswear at the moment, is defined by its sleek lines, muted color palette, and understated elegance and femininity (think Chloé or Jil Sander).
I met Juliana this past July during an intensive course for fashion design and styling at the Istituto Europeo di Design (IED) in Milan. Juliana had received a scholarship from the school as part of her grand prize package for winning It MTV/Elle’s Fashion Fabric competition (along with a one-day workshop at the L’Oréal Academy in Paris and a four-page editorial spread in Elle Brazil’s January 2011 issue). Since the program’s close, this young designer has been traveling through Europe on a quest to find inspiration for her upcoming collection.
ASTONISH : Tell me about your experience on It MTV/Elle’s Fashion Fabric reality show. Was it surreal winning the competition ?
JULIANA : Yes ! Our final challenge was to design a cocktail dress for the top model Carol Ribeiro, who presented the show. I made her an asymmetrical violet satin frock that she absolutely adored. I hadn’t even expected to be chosen as one of the final six contestants on the show in the first place since there were at least a thousand who applied. So it was definitely surreal winning the competition. It was really a dream come true to show my collection at the Casa dos Criadores, which is an important fashion event in Brazil that qualifies new designers that are starting in fashion field.
ASTONISH : Tell me about the looks you showed on the runway at the Casa dos Criadores.
JULIANA : I prepared ten differentlooks for Spring/Summer 2012. There was a recurring theme of contrast- for instance pairing different materials together on the same garment like cotton with fringe and juxtaposing shiny and matte textures. The bulk of my collection comprised of flirty cocktail dresses- there was a black halter-cut frock with a fringe skirt and a white sheath with a tulip-shaped skirt that nipped in at the waist. My favorite piece from my debut collection was a white sleeveless short dress with a fringe skirt and a low-cut back. There’s a great sense of movement evoked when the model struts down the catwalk. I truly believe that clothes should come alive on your body.
ASTONISH: Had you always envisioned yourself becoming a fashion designer one day ?
JULIANA : Yes and no. Since I was a teenager I knew that I wanted to work in fashion, but up until recently, the industry in Brazil was virtually non-existent. There were just few fashion design schools in my city so I actually studied architecture first. I graduated in 2007, but soon realized that I was more passionate about constructing clothes than buildings and I enrolled in a two-year fashion design program at Senai – Technical School in Curitiba in 2009. I only just graduated this past June. Things have been moving ahead so quickly for me ever since!
ASTONISH : Does your background in architecture influence your designs?
JULIANA : Absolutely. You know, I really don’t think architecture and fashion are that different. It’s the same thought process whether you are building a house or a dress. You need to know your clients, understand their lifestyles and personalities before you set out to design something for them. As an architect, I prime the structure and shape of my garments over everything. I always think about the construction of a garment before I tackle the details and think about the final touches and embellishments. Just like a house, a dress needs to be built on a solid foundation. There is also a strong sense of balance and equilibrium in my designs.
ASTONISH : What is your label’s signature style ?
JULIANA : My aesthetic is very minimalist and simple. Perhaps my Japanese origins have something to do with that ! I pay lots of attention to the fit and cut of my garments and focus on highest-quality fabrics and finishings — I’m a huge fan of silk ! I also prefer a neutral palette. For example, my first womenswear collection employed a black and white color scheme. I like clean looks and tend to avoid busy and distracting patterns. I want people to notice the woman wearing my designs, not just the clothes.
ASTONISH : Who is the Juliana Moriya customer ?
JULIANA : She is sexy but discreet… a bit more mature so probably in her 30s. She wants people to notice her for her elegance and style, not for her body. She doesn’t flaunt her assets in a vulgar way…
ASTONISH: That’s quite the opposite of what we’d expect from a Brazilian designer! Aren’t you from the land of gorgeous bronzed giraffe-like specimens like Gisele Bunchen and Adriana Lima?
JULIANA: You are absolutely right- Brazilians love to be sexy and show lots of skin. My clothes are alluring in a more subtle way— I like to show slivers of skin in unexpected places like a plunging backline. My collection definitely channels the sensuality of Brazil, but I am not into using the bright loud colors mixed generally normally favored by local designers.
ASTONISH: Who or what inspires your work?
JULIANA: I am very influenced by Céline, Yohji Yamamoto and Lanvin. I love the labels’ minimalism and glamour. However, I’m often more inspired by architecture and cities than by other designers. Inspiration for me comes from unexpected places. I always have my digital camera on me. I shoot everything that moves me. It can be anything from a shocking ensemble worn by a girl on the street in Tokyo or a striking red door in London.
ASTONISH: Who is your dream client?
JULIANA: Tilda Swinton! I love her edgy attitude. She’s very unique and different from everyone else. I also find that she’s a true natural beauty. Her style is very effortless and naturally sexy. She’s the epitome of the Juliana Moriya woman!
ASTONISH: What’s the price range of your label?
JULIANA: The prices range from 100-500 EUR for the shorter cocktail frocks and start from 1000 EUR for formalwear and wedding gowns. All my creations come in three standard sizes: small, medium and large.
ASTONISH: Where can people buy your clothes?
JULIANA: All my creations are available for viewing online at my company Web site (julianamoriya.com.br.) Those interested in purchasing a garment can email me at contato@julianamoriya.com.br for a price quote. By year end, the process will be much more streamlined. Clients will be able to place their orders directly via the Web site rather than having to email me. I will also start selling my clothes in high-end multi-brand stores in Brazil. I’m currently negotiating with stores in Curitiba and in São Paulo.
For more of Juliana, check out her website: www.julianamoriya.com.br
